Adventures on Cotentin's Coastline - Lighthouses, Tanks and Bunkers

Phare de Goury

Cotentin is a peninsula protruding into the English Channel in Northern France, situated east of Brittany. Historically, it is part of the Normandy region, while administratively, it falls under the Basse-Normandie administrative region and the Manche department. At the peninsula's tip lies the city of Cherbourg. About 10 kilometers east of Cherbourg, you'll find Bretteville, a charming coastal countryside idyll. And here, in a very comfortable, traditional Normandy stone house, I am writing at the moment.

We arrived in Bretteville around three weeks ago. At this point in our nomadic journey, we've come to realize that the first few days in a new place are typically about acclimatization, and everything can seem a bit challenging. 

Our new home is inviting and spacious, but the surrounding environment initially appeared rugged and somewhat daunting. The landscape seemed monotonous, the ground muddy, the weather chilly due to high-pressure systems, and the sun excessively bright. Our first encounter with Cherbourg was also a bit bewildering.

We've learned to allow time for orientation, understanding that things tend to get easier after a few days, and this time was no exception. During our first full weekend here, as we explored the area, we began to appreciate the diversity and uniqueness of Cotentin's landscapes. In its rugged way, Cotentin is remarkably beautiful, reminiscent of Ireland. The charming stone village buildings, often surrounded by natural stone walls covered in lush vegetation, add to its idyllic charm. In contrast to this idyllic scenery, Cotentin is also known for being France's primary hub for nuclear power, hosting several nuclear plants and a facility for reprocessing used nuclear fuel.

Around the Cotentin Peninsula, you can embark on a fantastic road trip by car, or you can choose to hike along the GR®223 Normandy coast footpath (from the button below you can download a map of GR®223 route). The entire 446 km trail can be completed in roughly three weeks. It starts in Honfleur, encircles the entire peninsula along the coastline, and ends at Mont Saint-Michel. So far, we've taken shorter excursions along the trail during evenings and weekends, covering only a few kilometers at a time. Nevertheless, we plan to undertake longer hikes during our stay.

Both the starting and ending points of this trail are beautiful places and among France's most renowned tourist destinations. Honfleur is a picturesque harbor town on the southern bank of the Seine estuary, famous for its charming old harbor. Mont Saint-Michel, on the other hand, is a monastery island off the Normandy coast, standing as one of France's most sought-after attractions due to its grandeur. Additionally, the trail also passes by the D-Day Landing Beaches, codenamed UTAH, OMAHA, GOLD, JUNO, and SWORD, which you can locate by these names on Google Maps. Today, these sites and museums dedicated to D-Day and the Battle of Normandy attract nearly 5 million visitors annually.

In my perspective, a place's allure often diminishes as its popularity as a tourist destination grows, except when one travels during the off-season. Our approach to selecting where to reside in various parts of France loosely follows the idea of avoiding the most heavily frequented areas. Normandy proves to be an excellent choice for spending the winter, as the weather remains relatively mild and you can enjoy all these places almost by yourself.

The Cotentin coastline is filled with fascinating spots, and I've discovered several nearby gems that I plan to visit multiple times for photography. One of the best part of this lifestyle is being close to these hidden treasures that you might not have known about, and having the opportunity to capture them in various conditions, with the perfect blend of weather, lighting, and tide.

Even if you're not into photography, these places are worth visiting. These are my favorites so far (I am quite sure there is more to come) at the tip of the Cotentin Peninsula, relatively close to Cherbourg, listed in the order they appear along the GR®223 trail.

The Chapelle des Marins in Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue is a beautiful, small 11th-century chapel dedicated to sailors lost at sea.

Barfleur, the smallest municipality in the Manche department, covers just 60 hectares and is home to only 600 residents. The village mainly consists of a charming street adorned with small shops and restaurants that create a cozy evening ambiance. Its picturesque harbor, featuring the Phare de la Bretonne and Phare du Cracko lighthouses, adds to its allure. I've already visited Barfleur four times, highlighting its proximity and its undeniable worth as a destination.

Port du Becquet, just before Cherbourg, is the nearest spot to our home and an excellent place to go and appreciate the view of a genuinely beautiful breakwater, where some of the rocks are stacked vertically in a unique arrangement.

Initially, Cherbourg may have seemed a bit confusing, but it has proven to be an intriguing and beautiful city. As a port town, it boasts the second largest artificial harbor in the world, a legacy from the 18th century. Cherbourg has deep connections to French naval history and transatlantic adventures. In fact, the Titanic made its final stop here on its ill-fated journey, a fact remembered at the Cité de la Mer, one of the main tourist attractions in this port city.

Following Cherbourg, a visit to Port Racine is a must. It's the smallest port in France, boasting a charming and picturesque harbor. Modest fishing boats rest peacefully within its protective walls, creating a serene scene. The port is named after Captain François-Médard Racine, one of the last pirates during Napoleon's reign, who used this spot as a refuge and later built a pier here.

The Phare de Goury in Cap de la Hague is a 50-meter-high lighthouse with a constant presence of white waves around it. It was first lit in 1837 after 27 boats had vanished in this area in just one year. If you plan to visit a lighthouse in Cotentin, this one is a stunning choice. Adding to its intrigue, a memorial cross stands on the promontory in front of it. In 1912, the French submarine Vendémiaire tragically sank nearby, with its entire crew of 25 members lost, after colliding with the pre-dreadnought battleship Saint Louis during maneuvers off the Casquets in the English Channel.

Nez de Jobourg, that after Mont-Saint-Michel, is the most visited place in the Manche department of Normandy and is a must-see for any trip to this area. Its cliffs are some of the highest in continental Europe. Particularly stunning views can be enjoyed near the Auberge des Grottes restaurant, which is also a cozy and worthwhile visit. During our visit, we arrived during the staff's mealtime, and it may not have been officially open yet, but we received a warm welcome and enjoyed excellent cappuccinos.

I've also been greatly charmed by Plage de Biville and Dunes de Biville. The approximately 15-kilometer-long coastline, adorned with old bunkers scattered here and there, is beautiful and impressive. The dunes are a 300-hectare expanse of unique and protected sandy landscape. From the mid-1970s until 2014, the dunes between Biville and the sea were occupied by the French army, and when they left, they left a few tanks behind. Today, I spent several hours hiking and searching for tanks in the dunes, managed to find six and ended up with my shoes filled with sand.

The adventure continues - it is so much more to see and experience here! And I you want to see more photos i post them here and here and here.