Part 9 - Art Meets Apocalypse in a Cubist Curiosity
In this blog and ongoing series, you can follow Abandoned Nordic's urbex road trip as we journey from Finland to France along an extended route. The trip will take about a month, and along the way, various things unfold. We’re currently in the Czech Republic.
Detail of The Bank of the Legions: Battles of Vouziers and Terron relief by Jan Štursa
We visited Prague with an open mind, knowing little about the city beforehand. My plan was simply to wander, absorb as much as possible, and form my own impressions. A more structured approach might have given me better starting points for photography, but it would have taken away the joy of discovery and made exploring the city feel like a task.
I often feel that I don’t know enough about architecture to capture the “right” things. My photos are often based purely on visual appeal, resulting in a random collection of images that lack deeper meaning - pictures that could just as easily be snapped on a phone as mementos. Still, I carry my DSLR almost everywhere when I travel, capturing a lot along the way. Yet, it’s only when photographing abandoned buildings that I feel I’m diving into a deeper narrative and creating images that hold meaning.
Prague is undeniably an impressive city, especially for those passionate about architecture. Its unique blend of styles makes it one of the most intriguing cities in Europe. There are three compelling reasons why Prague should be on every architecture lover’s list.
First, Prague’s Cubist architecture is truly one of a kind. Nowhere else in the world can you find such a rich concentration of this unique style. Though Cubism was a relatively brief period in architectural history, it holds a prominent place in Czech design, especially in Prague. Flourishing between the world wars, Cubist buildings create a surreal, striking atmosphere. At its best, this style feels like stepping into a dream - or even a nightmare - what could be more captivating?
Second, Prague’s architectural diversity is unmatched. Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Art Nouveau - every style renowned for its beauty is represented here. Romanesque architecture, although less visible at street level due to centuries of facade updates, can still be found underground. In the Middle Ages, Old Town’s street level was raised to protect against floods, turning the old streets into cellars. Today, these atmospheric Romanesque cellars house charming restaurants. In addition to these historical styles, Prague showcases Cubism and Functionalism, alongside traces of communist-era architecture and modern high-tech designs, creating an architectural landscape that is uniquely its own.
Lastly, the Prague Metro blends functionality and design beautifully. Built during the 1970s under communist rule, its most iconic feature is the anodized aluminum tiles on Line A, designed by Czech architect Jaroslav Otruba. These geometric, futuristic tiles give the stations a distinct look. While the minimalist, monumental style reflects Soviet-era infrastructure, newer stations incorporate sleek, modern designs.
Looking back, I regret not dedicating more time to photography during our brief stay in Prague. Perhaps planning in advance would have allowed me to capture more meaningful images, but the idea of structuring my exploration felt too much like work - especially when there’s no client or deadline involved. Yet, Prague is a city that truly rewards patience and attention to detail. If I return, it will be in winter and for at least a week, with a more intentional approach. This time, I might even craft a photography plan to better capture the intricate details and unique character that make Prague so unforgettable.
One building left a lasting impression and inspired me to photograph more thoughtfully: The Bank of the Legions. It was pure chance that we took a closer look - we might have walked right past it if not for a sudden downpour that forced us to take shelter under a café awning across the street. From there, our attention was drawn to the building, especially its striking reliefs, which sparked our curiosity about their meaning and significance.
Partb of the facede of The Bank of the Legions
The Bank of the Legions was established in 1919 in Irkutsk, Siberia, as a depository for the savings of Czechoslovak soldiers returning from World War I. To honor these heroes, a monumental building was constructed in Prague between 1921 and 1923, designed by the renowned architect Josef Gočár in the dynamic rondo-cubist style. Its impressive facade features cylindrical pilasters, bold arcs, and a horizontal frieze by Otto Gutfreund that vividly depicts the soldiers' return. Four reliefs by Jan Štursa commemorate key Legionnaire battles, while the use of red and white stone symbolizes the national colors of the newly independent Czechoslovakia.
We visited the impressive library at Strahov Monastery and, of course, couldn’t miss Staré Město, the Old Town. While undeniably beautiful, both places felt overly touristy and, truthfully, not entirely my cup of tea for that reason. The Memorial to the Victims of Communism, however, was deeply moving and left a lasting impression.
The true highlights of the trip, though, were the spontaneous stops at local beer bars – the kind with an authentic, laid-back vibe that felt uniquely Czech. And let’s be honest, nothing beats Czech beer!
Naturally, as horror movie enthusiasts, we had to check out the quirky Horror Bar: Nightmare. With its dim red lighting and iconic horror movie characters staring eerily from their displays, it added a delightfully macabre twist to our adventure. Definitely worth the visit!
After a couple of days in Prague, early on Thursday morning, July 11th, it was time to move on. The cloudy skies brought a welcome change, and the excitement of diving back into exploration felt invigorating after a few nice and clean days. Our first stop was an abandoned castle we had marked on our list, aiming to capture some striking drone shots – and we succeeded! Unfortunately, despite our best efforts, we couldn’t find a way inside. It was a disappointment, especially knowing there was a reportedly stunning chapel within, but the thrill of the search itself made up for it.
A beautiful castle indeed, with its exact location kept a secret, though the text reveals it’s not far from Prague.
Nearby, we stumbled upon an abandoned mausoleum. A door at the back stood enticingly ajar, inviting us into the cool, shadowy crypt – a much-needed escape from the stifling heat.
The crypt was empty in some ways, but far from ordinary. Among all the places I’ve visited, this mausoleum easily claimed the top spot for pigeon droppings – the sheer volume was staggering. The air was so thick and unbreathable that we had to improvise face masks before we could even consider taking photos. It was an unexpected obstacle, adding an unforgettable (and admittedly unpleasant) layer to the adventure. Amid all the pigeon droppings stood a handless statue of Jesus, which was, more or less, the highlight of the place.
Handless Jesus standing in pigeon droppings
By early afternoon, with no more sites left to explore in the Czech Republic, we decided to head for Slovakia. Later that evening, we crossed the border and found a peaceful campsite. Sleeping under the stars, instead of in a hotel, felt like the perfect way to end the day – reconnecting with nature and fully embracing the spirit of the journey. Life on the road truly is something!