The Allure of the Underground: A Night in the Paris Catacombs part 1

 

In this three-part blog series, I explore the fascinating Paris Catacombs, starting with the official tour and venturing into the lesser-known, hidden sections of the underground. From the meticulously arranged ossuaries to the unique charm of the unofficial galleries, join me as I uncover the history, beauty, and quiet intrigue of this remarkable world beneath the streets of Paris.

 

The Paris Catacombs have always fascinated me, as they do many others. Located in Montparnasse, the museum section - often referred to as the official catacombs - is both accessible and easy to visit. Tickets must be booked up to a week in advance to prevent counterfeits. A maximum of 200 visitors are allowed inside at a time, with new groups admitted every fifteen minutes. Entry is at 1 Av. du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, and the exit at 21 Bis Av. René Coty, making for a winding 1,5-kilometer underground journey between the two points.

As one of Paris’s most unique burial sites, the Catacombs house the remains of over six million Parisians. Originally limestone quarries providing much of the stone used to build the city, these underground caves became a resting place for the dead in the 18th century, when overcrowded cemeteries posed significant health risks. Following a royal decree in 1777, human remains were moved to the quarries, which were transformed into ossuaries - a process that continued until 1814.

Under Héricart de Thury's direction, the ossuary evolved from a simple mass grave into the carefully arranged Municipal Ossuary, now famously known as the Catacombs of Paris. His meticulous efforts in organizing and decorating the space left a lasting legacy beneath the streets of the city.

The Catacombs also stand as a reminder of the equality of death, where the bones of millions intermingle without regard for status or wealth. In this solemn space, the distinctions of life fade, offering a profound reflection on humanity's shared mortality.

 

All the most decorative arrangements of bones are found in the museum section, which is well-lit, easy to navigate, and visually striking - though not particularly thrilling, in my opinion. While the tourist section descends to a depth of about 20 meters, the deepest parts of the catacombs plunge as far as 35 meters below the surface.

The idea of venturing deeper, beyond the curated experience, was irresistible to me. The entire network of catacombs spans an estimated 350 kilometers, with the museum portion accounting for less than half a percent. There is so much more to discover beyond the official path. The catacombs’ labyrinthine environment is both challenging and alluring - a place where you can confront primal fears head-on, a raw and captivating experience.

And since we’re now living in Paris, it’s only natural to feel the pull to explore what lies beneath. The Paris Catacombs, with their forbidden allure, are monitored by a special police unit dedicated to maintaining safety and security. Technically, venturing into the off-limits areas is illegal, and those caught risk being fined - but that hardly deters the curious and the daring.

Besides, there are other things to worry about down there, far more concerning than the police, if you ask me. The catacombs are a labyrinth where it’s easy to get lost. Darkness pervades the tunnels, some sections are flooded or structurally unstable, and hazards like stale air, low oxygen levels, and falling debris pose serious risks to those who venture too far.

 

Since I seek excitement and challenges - but not at the cost of my life - it was clear that I needed a guide who was deeply familiar with the catacombs. Navigating this vast, forbidden labyrinth is no small feat, and going without an experienced companion would have been reckless. These guides operate unofficially; their knowledge of the tunnels and secret entrances comes from years of exploration, but their activities remain as unauthorized as the visits themselves.

Arranging such a tour requires a leap of trust. Many guides closely guard their identities and the secrets of the catacombs, both to protect themselves and to preserve the integrity of this hidden world. Fortunately, I had friends who vouched for my chosen guide, their recommendations providing the reassurance I needed to embark on this remarkable journey with confidence.

I explored the unofficial catacombs twice. During the first visit, our group of seven included the guide, his brother, myself, and four seasoned explorers - Kimmo, Niko, Ksenia, and Vadim. With a group that size, focusing on photography proved challenging. On the second visit, I ventured down with just one experienced cataphile, and the benefits of a smaller group quickly became apparent.

Of course, I visited the official catacombs as well, and I highly recommend the experience. For those captivated by the catacombs’ history and mystery, the official Catacombs of Paris offer an unparalleled journey. Here, you can admire the most stunning and meticulously preserved bone arrangements in a safe and accessible setting.

Even if a trip to Paris isn’t on your agenda, I highly recommend The Catacombs of Paris Online Tour. Well-crafted and truly fascinating, this immersive virtual experience provides a comprehensive look at the catacombs’ rich history and significance - all for just €5. It’s a fantastic way to uncover the beauty, stories, and legacy of this extraordinary underground world from the comfort of your own home.

 




 
Tanja Palmunen